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HOW TO: FIT A TOILET & BIDET INTRODUCTION If you are changing your toilet, you may also want to consider re-styling the whole bathroom. Before taking any action, plan your new installation thoroughly. If you have only one toilet in the house, the work must be carried out efficiently to minimize the time that the amenities are unavailable. If you have any concerns about your own ability, ask professionals to carry out the work SKILL LEVEL A good knowledge of plumbing techniques and some understanding of building construction would be an advantage SAFETY FIRST Be careful not to strain yourself whilst maneuvering the appliances. Ensure that all metal pipes and fittings are crossbonded with 6mm2 sheathed earthing wire. Protective goggles and gloves may be needed at some stages. TO COMPLETE THIS PROJECT YOU WILL NEED... • Basin • Basin Wrench • Bathroom Suite • Bathroom Taps • Club Hammer • Cold Chisel • Copper Pipe • Ear Defenders • Floor Tiles (optional) • Gloves • Hacksaw • Joint Fittings • Junior Hacksaw • Plaster • Power Drill Bits • Power Drill (corded) • Safety Goggles • Screwdrivers - Phillips • Screwdrivers - Slotted • Screws • Silicone Grease & Sealant • Spanners • Spirit Level • Tape Measure • Tile Adhesive & Grout • Tiling Tools • Tube Cutter • Wall Plugs • Wall Tiles (optional) • Basic Plumbing • Build a Shower Cubicle • Fit a Bath & Wash Basin • Measuring & Marking • Plumbing care & Repair • Plumbing care & Repair • Power supply to outbuildings • Safe DIY • Gas Blowtorch • Mortar 1- REMOVING THE OLD WC Check all goods carefully prior to installation and before the old suite is disconnected. The first task is to remove the old pan and cistern. With the cold supply turned off, flush the toilet to empty the cistern. Use a sponge to soak up any surplus water left after flushing. Disconnect the supply pipe and overflow pipe from the cistern. If they are corroded, cut them free. Disconnect or cut away the flush pipe. Remove the cistern and any brackets fixed to the wall. Remove the screws holding the base of the pan to the floor. Chip out the old putty sealant or mortar from the soil-pipe joint, and work the pan free to remove it. If the joint cannot be freed, break the pan outlet with a hammer and lift the pan clear. If the pan is bonded to a concrete floor, use a cold chisel to free it. Stuff paper or old cloth in the pipe. Carefully chip out the remains of the china from the soil pipe using the chisel Wear protective goggles and gloves during these operations. If a wooden floor shows signs of rot, cut out the damaged material and replace it with new flooring. Treat the new and surrounding wood with preservative.
2- FITTING A NEW CLOSE-COUPLED-WC Toilet cisterns are supplied with a siphon kit and lever handle for self assembly. The cistern sometimes has two holes in the front to enable you to set the lever on the left or right-hand side. Check that the pan and cistern are level, and pack out as required. Mark the positions of the floor and wall fixings. Also mark the overflow position.
Assemble the siphon and lever mechanism, following the Fit the cistern to the pan, using the assembly kit provided with the WC. Do not over tighten the fixings. Use a push-fit flexible connector to join the new pan to the soil pipe. These are available in straight, off-set, angled and bent forms to fit different installation and Place the WC in the position required to suit the type of connector you will need.
Push the connector onto the pan outlet, then push the pan into position with
Use a silicone-grease lubricant to make fitting easier. Remove the assembly, then drill and plug the wall-fixing holes Also drill a hole for the 21mm (3/4in) overflow pipe, allowing for a fall to the outside. For solvent-welded wastepipe joints, use the solvent supplied by the pipe manufacturer to ensure compatibility. Refit the assembly and check it is level. Fix the cistern and pan with brass screws and flexible washers. Do not use a cement mortar to embed the pan, as this can cause stresscracking in the china. Fit an isolating valve in the water-supply pipe and connect the pipe to the float-valve tail with a tap connector. Cut and fit the new overflow pipe, using a connector and elbow as required. The end of the overflow should extend beyond the face of the wall by at least 100mm (4in). Fit the toilet seat and cover and adjust the fittings to allow the seat to stay up when open.
Turn on the water supply and check the water level in the cistern - it should
be about 25mm (1in) below the overflow outlet. Adjust the float arm if Unless you are experienced with electrical installations, ask an electrician to fit supplementary bonding to all metal fittings and pipework. 3- FITTING A BIDET Fitting an over-rim supply bidet is relatively straightforward, as the supply and waste plumbing is much the same as for a washbasin. Fit the bowl in a similar way to a toilet pan. The plumbing for the rim supply type of bidet is more complicated and is best fitted by a plumber, as it must comply with water bylaws. 4- SUPPLY PIPES AND WASTE PIPES Bidets are fitted with 12mm (1/2in) taps and pipes. You can use copper supply pipes, connected with soldered or compression joints, or plastic pipes that are usually connected with push-fit joints. Adapter couplings are available to join pipes of different materials and sizes. Always follow tap manufacturers' instructions when connecting supply pipes, as some tap installations require check valves to be fitted. Plastic pipe is used for wastes: 32mm (11/4in) for bidets; and 21mm (3/4in) for overflows. Solvent-welded joints, push-fit connectors or compression joints are used to join plastic wastepipes. Unless you are connecting to existing wastepipes, new bidet wastes should be connected to a soil-stack with boss fittings. If a trap cannot be removed to provide access to the wastepipe, include a rodding-eye fitting so that any blockages can be cleared.
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